Viva Napoli - Tips to Getting Around Naples

From the moment you step foot on to the chaotic streets of Naples, you realize it is a study in contrasts. One moment you’re walking down a rundown street with flailing laundry and the next you’re strolling past Baroque architectural splendours.

But some would argue – rightfully so – that this authenticity is what gives this southern Italian city its unparalleled charm.
 

Naples is an ancient port city located between Mount Vesuvius and the steaming Phlegraean Fields. Its history is a vivid montage rooted in Greek and Roman legend with rich artistic and cultural traditions evident in the many castles, churches, museums, piazzas, archaeological remains, and UNESCO world heritage sites. Most notably the San Carlo opera house, the National Archaeological Museum of Naples, the Castel dell’Ovo, Castel Nuovo, Piazza del Mercato, Santa Chiara Church and the Duomo.

 

·        In Naples, life is lived on its colourful streets. It is not uncommon to see beautiful, feisty women shouting Neapolitan slurs with spirited gestures, old men playing cards, or Vespas and cars weaving in and out of traffic in a frenetic road dance. Here, people live so passionately and intensely that one of the greatest pleasures is to sit back and watch as this ‘live theatre’ unfolds.

Neapolitans have an enthusiasm for life like no others. Maybe it’s because they live their lives in the shadow of an active volcano with death looming in close proximity. Whatever the reason, this gusto is evident in the architecture, the way people dress and in the delicious Neapolitan cuisine.

Many of Italy’s world-famous dishes like pizza and spaghetti were born in this region, so it’s no surprise that Naples offers some of the finest and freshest food in all of Italy. Mouth-watering pizza is made with fresh mozzarella di bufala and fresh seafood is prepared to perfection. Naples is also home to Italy’s best coffee. Espresso bars are everywhere and patrons can be found enjoying coffee at all hours.Try a steamy shot of fragrant espresso at the late 19th century Gran Caffè Gambrinus with a decadent pastry. It is an experience you won’t soon forget.

·         Visitors might be surprised to discover that Naples is a shopping gem. Centuries of artisan traditions continue to be passed down from generation to generation. Renowned for having the finest sartorie custom tailors in the world, the best hand sown suits, dress shirts and ties are skillfully made here.

Naples has been working hard to shed its notorious reputation for pickpockets, littered streets and organized crime and it has been succeeding. This fascinating city is many things – some good and some bad – but if given the chance, Naples will draw you in and stir your emotions with its colourful characters, classical ruins and passion for life’s pleasures.

 

 

SURROUNDINGS

Naples is Italy’s gateway to Pompeii, approx. 25 kilometers from the city center, where the active Mount Vesuvius looms. In 1997, UNESCO designated Pompeii a World Heritage Site. Take ferry’s to visit the neighboring islands of Capri, Ischia and Procida. The Amalfi Coast is breathtaking with its famous cliffside villages of Sorrento, Positano, Amalfi and Ravello.

WHERE TO STAY

Overlooking the picturesque Castel dell’Ovo and the Bay of Naples, Hotel Excelsior is an elegant property that honours Italy’s old-world craftsmanship and design with focus on modern luxury. Enjoy fresh Mediterranean cuisine on their rooftop restaurant that combines 

spectacular indoor and veranda views of Naples. 

Located between the harbour and the old town, the Romeo Hotel brings innovative design elements to a city that evokes old world Italian romance. The highlight of this stunning property is the rooftop restaurant that serves regional dishes with breathtaking views of Vesuvius and Capri. 
 



WHERE TO EAT

No visit to Naples is complete without eating pizza at the legendary L’Antica Pizzeria da Michelethat many have described as the “Sacred Temple of Pizza.” This small, rather nondescript pizzeria has been making the best marinara and margherita pizza since 1870. 

 

If you’re a seafood lover reserve a table at Ristorante da Dora. It may look like a run-of-the-mill trattoria, but this modest restaurant offers some of the freshest fish in town and is always packed with local fish lovers. 

 

GETTING TO NAPLES

Capodichino airport is located eight kilometers northeast of downtown Naples. There are daily flights into Naples from most Italian and European cities. You can also take the train into Naples. If you’re renting a vehicle, you can drive from Rome to Naples in approximately 2.5 hours on highway A90/E80, but beware: driving in Naples requires a lot of courage.

FUN FACTS
• Naples was founded by the Greeks in 7th century BC

• The city was named Neapolis which means the "New City"

• It is said that the Apostles St. Peter and St. Paul preached here

• Naples became part of the Italian unification in 1860

• It is the third most populated city in Italy

• Naples has the world’s worst traffic outside of Cairo

Look for this article in the new issue of Panorama Italia Magazine on newsstands now. 

SPRING into Romance in Rome, Naples & Capri

Primavera is a pleasant time of year when Italy’s temperatures warm up and flowers are in bloom, a time to enjoy an after-dinner passeggiata without the hordes of tourists and excruciating heat. Spring is when Italy begins hosting festivals and celebrates the bounties of the earth. It is an opportunity to indulge your culinary palate with great food and wine. To me, this is one of the best times to visit Italy. And after an 8 hour flight, I landed in Rome’s Fiumicino Airport with one thing in mind, to relax and unwind. Our agenda was simple, to enjoy leisurely days eating, shopping, site seeing, and exploring the historical splendors of Rome, Naples, and Capri.

 

Rome

Our holiday began in the Eternal City. This was not my first visit to Rome. Actually, I had been there many times before so I wanted this visit to be more about doing the things I enjoyed most. I made reservations at the Inn at the Spanish Steps, a luxury boutique hotel on Via Condotti in a national monument building next door to Prada and Gucci, at the foot of the world-famous Spanish Steps. The room was elegantly furnished and spacious, and the staff friendly and kind. What stole our hearts though was the enchanting rooftop garden terrace with its lovely views, orange trees and cyclamen blooming all around us. It provided the perfect backdrop to enjoy morning breakfast and cappuccino before heading out.  

Each morning we were greeted by a little boy who sat outside the steps of Gucci and befittingly serenaded us with the love lyrics to “Besame Mucho” before we headed out for the day. I will never forget him.

For the next few days we walked the ancient streets of Rome, shopped, took a horse drawn carriage ride to see the Roman ruins, threw good luck coins into the Trevi Fountain at night, ate gelato, and sat back to enjoy the city’s magnificence.

They say, “When in Rome do as the Roman’s do!” And that we did eating and drinking at some of Rome’s finest establishments. We lunched at Il Palazzetto Restaurant and Wine Bar located in a 16th-century building overlooking the Spanish Steps; drank aperitivi at the 250 year old Antico Cafe Greco; and enjoyed an incredibly delicious dinner with wine at Clemente alla Maddalena located in Piazzadella Maddalena, a few steps from the Pantheon.

It was a wonderful time, so it came as no surprise that we bid farewell to Rome with a heavy heart and headed south towards Naples.

Naples

Naples is a colorful city full of character and charm, much like the people who reside there. It is situated on the west coast of Italy by the Gulf of Naples, halfway between Mount Vesuvius and the Phlegraean Fields, and is known for its rich history, art, culture, architecture, music, and gastronomy.

We stayed at the Hotel Excelsior in a spectacular room with gorgeous views over the Bay of Naples. While there I visited the San Carlo opera house, the National Archaeological Museum of Naples, the Castel dell’Ovo, Castel Nuovo, Piazza del Mercato, Santa Chiara Church and the Duomo. I went shopping in the some of the city’s finest sartorie, but best of all I enjoyed a relaxing in-room massage at the end of a long day.  

The food in Naples is some of the freshest and tastiest in all of Italy. We ate mouth-watering pizza made with fresh mozzarella di bufala, fresh seafood prepared to perfection, and finished each meal with fragrant espresso and pastries.

After shopping and eating to my heart’s content we sailed off to Capri…  

Capri

There was a slight chill in the air and a light mist as we boarded the ferry that would take us to the enchanting Italian island of Capri located across the Gulf of Naples, in the Tyrrhenian Sea. This portion of the trip was arranged by a dear friend, so I had no idea what to expect.

When we arrived on the island, we hailed a taxi and watched in anticipation as we made our way to the center of Capri. There, just steps away from the Piazzetta stood the luxurious Grand Hotel Quisiana. This masterpiece of Italian elegance is the perfect example of Capri’s Dolce Vita. A place you must visit to truly appreciate the magnitude of its beauty.

Our suite was decorated with antiques in delicate shades of white that exquisitely enhanced the breathtaking ocean view from our terrace. The large bathroom was stocked with luxurious toiletries that embodied the beautiful scents of Capri. It was the perfect backdrop for a warm bath. One I enjoyed before heading out to the hotel’s gourmet restaurant for dinner.

We arrived at the renowned QVISI RESTAURANT to find the same soft lighting, candles, and white hues found throughout the hotel. Live music played softly, befitting the magical atmosphere of this fine restaurant. I was excited to experience the epitome of gastronomic excellence with a special person, who like me, takes great pride and pleasure in the art of eating. We decided to order the Tasting Menu which consisted of 8 courses. Each dish featured traditional regional cuisine with a new contemporary twist. Each meal transformed into a gastronomic journey exploring the flavors and aromas of the Mediterranean. Each dish presented as if a work of art. It was an experience I will never forget, made even more incredible by the company I shared it with.

After dinner we headed to the piano bar to savor a glass of grappa while listening to the talented gentleman play piano. It was a truly magical experience that defies words. One I will never forget. One I will keep in my heart forever. And if you are ever fortunate enough to visit this exquisite island, I hope you too have the privilege of experiencing this hotel.

 

The remainder of our days were spent exploring the island, eating, relaxing and indulging in the pleasure of Il Dolce Far Niente– the sweetness of doing nothing but savouring and enjoying life and each other. Until next time!